Thursday 22 November 2018

Indonesia 7 - Mawlid

This week we have been mostly doing the mundane things associated with project management - looking after finances, planning log frames, checking in with stakeholders etc.

The exception was Tuesday, Mawlid, the observation of the Prophet Muhammad's Birthday. It was the 12th of Rabi al-Anwal, in the Islamic calendar, the day that Sunni Muslims (the majority here and in many parts of the world) believe that he came into the world around 1400 years ago. Shi'a Muslims will observe the day on the 17th of Rabi al-Anwal - this Sunday.

Going back 13 years ago I was privileged to observe, and celebrate somewhat, Diwali while I was living and working in India, so I was excited to be in the world's largest Islamic country for Mawlid. Wikipedia, the font of all knowledge these days, says, "in many parts of Indonesia, the celebration of the Mawlid al-nabi seems to surpass in importance, liveliness and splendour the two official Islamic holidays of Eid ul-Fitr and Eid al-Adha. The local Christians explained the day as "Christmas for Muslims".

So on this basis, I thought we were in for a big day.

At first there was nothing different. The call to prayer went out from the local mosque at 4 am, and the faithful went up the street to gather. We usually hear them - or the roosters reacting to them. But then there was nothing else unique. As we drove to have a day out (as a public holiday, everything including our Divisional office was closed for the day), we did see a lot of mosques were full but there wasn't anything outstanding happening.

Then in the evening the party started. Our neighbours had eight loudspeakers going non stop with music, partying and quite the crowd. At one stage I asked my friend for a translation and he said, "They are just announcing to everyone to make sure they pick up their litter and pointing out where the toilets are". It could have been any Australian music festival at this stage, except that the whole family was involved.

I have to admit it wasn't quite what it was built up to be, but I'm glad that our neighbours had a great time - and glad of the down time we got too!


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